I like it when a topic “lingers” as reader Jim Thomas, the brother of Dean Thomas, the ammunition guru, characterized it. The topic, unsurprisingly, is the multiple loads in recovered muskets and rifle muskets on the Gettysburg battlefield following that climactic battle. Jim advises that Springfield Armory has a rifled musket barrel that was “sectioned down its length and shows multiple bullets.” Unfortunately, the only photo Jim had available was one the armory sent to Dean some years back, and it was a fuzzy Polaroid. Despite the fuzz, you can distinctly see the multiple loads.
Jim also advised that the Johnston & Dow combustible cartridges noted in the multiple load story were not, as is often stated, “skin cartridges,” but were actually made of “combustible paper coated in collodian.”
The open framed Colt Army and Navy models were the most popular percussion revolvers for both military and civilian use from the 1850s through the Civil War and beyond. Although the Colt is still a favorite with many casual shooters and reenactors, competitive target shooters prefer Remington or Rogers and Spencer style six-guns, which have solid top straps with rear sight grooves. The latter guns provide a better and more consistent sight picture than that offered by the Colt’s hammer notch rear sight. The cylinder/chamber alignment with the barrel doesn’t change as often either.
Whatever their sights, all cap and ball revolvers, original or reproduction, are loaded the same way. Although I have covered it in the past, a refresher course in revolver loading might be timely. The usual procedure is: first, check the cylinder to make sure the gun is unloaded; second, swab the revolver’s barrel and chambers with a dry cleaning patch to remove any residual oil; third, snap a percussion cap on each nipple to remove any remaining oil in the nipple channels; fourth, load each chamber with a measured charge of FFFG black powder, usually 15 to 20 grains for a .36, 20 to 25 grains for a .44, followed by a soft lead swaged or cast round ball or conical projectile rammed home with the gun’s integral loading lever; fifth, if you are so inclined, slather a thick lubricating grease over each chamber mouth; sixth, pointing the gun in safe direction, slip caps over the nipples. The six-gun is now ready to fire. To reload and fire again, repeat steps four through six.
The addition of grease to the chamber mouths, albeit traditional, is optional. It was, and remains, believed by many that it prevents a “chain-fire,” or multiple chamber ignitions, as well as providing lubrication to keep down powder fouling. While chain-fires from the front of the cylinder are virtually impossible with tight fitting balls, the grease may provide some lubrication, although much of it is simply blown away. An Ox-Yoke “Wonder Wad” seated between powder and ball most likely provides a far better solution to the fouling problem, as the wad sweeps black powder residue down the bore with each succeeding shot.
Caps must fit the revolver’s nipples snugly. Ill-fitting caps were, in the 19th century, and remain today, the most common cause of chain-fires and misfires in a percussion revolver. The #10 cap size fits many Italian made replicas as well as original guns quite well. Some replicas require size #11 caps, however. Different brands of caps, even though nominally the same size, often differ, so try several to find the snuggest fit. Most original .44 caliber guns use .454 or .457 diameter round balls. Some reproductions work best with .451 balls.
Civil War soldiers usually loaded their cap and ball revolvers with combustible cartridges, simply inserting the prepared cartridge, containing both powder and conical ball, in the front of each chamber, ramming it home and then capping. Some of today’s shooters make combustible cartridges out of nitrated paper, which works much the same way. Another form of cartridge uses soft plastic tubes sold by various dealers and shooters, which I prefer. I load each tube with a powder charge, Wonder Wad and ball for a convenient way to carry ammunition.
While we are on the topic of Civil War revolvers, a friend sent me a photo of a “defarbed” reproduction Le Mat revolver. The expert “defarber” removed all mod
ern markings and replaced them with the correct proof marks and serial numbers seen on the original LeMats. That is ok with me, but he went a few steps further, which I am not so sure about. At the request of the owner, the process did not stop there, and the revolver’s finish was removed and replaced with a patina suggesting an original piece.
To me, defarbing is a worthwhile practice for living history practitioners and authentic reenactors seeking an original look for their historical persona’s equipment. It must be remembered, though, that guns were issued new, not with a 150 year old patina. I have a strange feeling that this gun might end up being classified as an original at some show or auction down the road.